Choice First Recommends: Walking Gear

January 9, 2026

There's no shortage of dog walking products on the market - and plenty of clever marketing designed to convince you that you need all of them. You don’t.

Below are my evidence-based, welfare-led recommendations for practical, safe, and humane walking gear that supports both dogs and humans out and about.

Leads

Leads are an essential management and safety tool - for your dog, for other people, and for other dogs.

What to choose

A standard clip-on lead is the safest and most versatile option for everyday walks.

I strongly recommend avoiding:

Choke chains
Slip leads
Any lead or attachment designed to tighten or cause discomfort

Equipment that relies on pain or pressure does not improve learning and can actively interfere with it.

In addition, repeated pressure to the neck can cause injury to sensitive structures such as the trachea and thyroid gland, which plays an important role in growth, metabolism, and mood regulation. To reduce this risk, I recommend attaching the lead to a well-fitted harness rather than a collar (more on harnesses below).

Materials

Some of the most practical lead materials include:

Biothane – lightweight, waterproof, durable, and easy to clean
PVC or webbed polyester – durable and often hypoallergenic
Leather, cotton, or nylon – lighter, but generally less hard-wearing
Chain leads – very durable and chew-proof, but heavy and often limited in length (and may damage teeth if chewed)

Length

For most dogs, I recommend a lead 1.5–2 metres long. This allows freedom to sniff and move naturally while still maintaining safety and control.

In busy urban environments, a shorter 1-metre lead may be more appropriate. Lead length should always be matched to the environment and the individual dog.

Clips and Handles

Carabiners are typically the strongest option
Swivel trigger clips can reduce lead twisting
'Traffic leads' or short handles can be useful in specific situations (e.g. busy crossings), but I prefer using a longer lead and gathering it as needed, as very short leads can restrict natural movement
Traffic handles that attach to an existing lead can offer flexibility without limiting choice

Hands-free leads

Hands-free leads worn around the waist can be helpful for:

Training exercises
Managing puppies at home
Trail running
Dogs who've already learned how to walk on a loose lead in all environments

However, I do not recommend these for smaller humans walking large or powerful dogs due to injury risk.

Retractable (flexi) leads

In most cases, I recommend avoiding retractable leads. They:

Aren't strong
Increase the risk of injury to both dog and handler
Encourage constant tension
Can be confusing for dogs when rules change (sometimes pulling works, sometimes it doesn’t)

They may be appropriate for older dogs who naturally walk slowly or dogs with extensive lead-walking experience, but they are not suitable for puppies, large breeds, or dogs who pull.

Long lines

Long lines are an excellent management tool, particularly for:

Recall training
Allowing freedom while maintaining safety

A length of 5–10 metres works well for most purposes. Before using one, it’s important to learn safe handling techniques to prevent burns, tangles, or sudden jolts. There are many good video tutorials available online.

Choice First Recommends:

Harnesses

A well-fitted harness is an essential part of your dog's walking gear.

What to look for

Choose a Y-front or T-front harness that:

Sits lower on the neck than a collar
Avoids pressure on the throat and shoulders
Allows full, unrestricted movement

Avoid harnesses that:

Sit across the shoulders
Rub under the armpits
Restrict joint movement

(Think of these like badly fitting bras or itchy clothing labels - technically wearable, but uncomfortable all day long).

Fit and features

Two points of attachment (front and back) are useful for training and double-ended leads
Harnesses with multiple fastenings can be easier for dogs who dislike having equipment pulled over their head (which are most)
“Step-in” harnesses are often less comfortable and harder to fit correctly

Choice First Recommends:

Collars

A collar’s primary purpose is holding your dog’s ID tag, which is a legal requirement for dogs in public.

What to avoid

I do not recommend:

Prong collars
Choke collars
Shock or e-collars
Martingale collars

If your dog is walked on a well-fitted harness, there is no need for “escape-proof” or corrective collars.

Best option

A flat collar with a buckle or clip fastening is the most comfortable choice for everyday wear. Wider flat collars can be useful for dogs with narrow heads or necks, such as sighthounds.

Dogs who walk calmly on a loose lead may be safe on a collar, but for dogs who pull or lunge, pressure on the neck can cause injury and stress. This is why I recommend harness-based walking for most dogs.

CHECK OUT the brands/companies listed above.

Note: I do not earn commission from any brands listed above - I recommend them purely based on experience and welfare considerations.

Muzzles - all the responsible dogs are wearing one

Muzzles are not something to fear. Muzzled dogs are good dogs being responsibly managed.

Dogs may need a muzzle for many reasons, including:

Preventing scavenging
Managing fear or anxiety
Supporting recovery from injury
Veterinary visits
New or unpredictable environments

A good muzzle should allow the dog to:

Pant
Drink
Take treats
Basket muzzles are generally preferable. Fabric muzzles may appear comfortable but often restrict breathing and should be used with caution.

Muzzle training should always be done positively and gradually so the dog feels safe and comfortable wearing it.

You can find free guides online from The Dog's Trust and The Muzzle Movement.

Choice First Recommends:

Other Useful Items

Treat bags

Treat bags make reinforcing desired behaviour easy and timely.

Look for:

Secure closures (zips or magnetic fastenings)
Durability
Easy cleaning

For wet food, silicone pouches are great - they're hygienic and easy to clean, and can be clipped to clothing or placed inside a treat bag!

Yellow Dog Awareness

If your dog is in training, recovery, or needs space from people or dogs, consider using a lead sleeve such as this one from Hi Dog.

A Note on Aversive Equipment

Equipment such as prong collars, choke chains, slip leads, head collars, and e-collars work by causing discomfort or pain to suppress behaviour.

While they may stop a behaviour in the short term, they carry significant risks:

Physical injury to the neck, airway, and nerves
Increased fear, anxiety, and aggression
Damaged dog–human relationships
Behaviour suppression and emotional shutdown

Veterinary thyroid expert Jean Dodds states:

“Choke and prong collars can easily injure the delicate butterfly-shaped thyroid gland that sits just below the larynx and in front of the trachea. These collars can also injure the salivary glands and lymph nodes.”

Stress from pain experienced during walks can become associated with the environment - other dogs, people, or even the handler - leading to increased reactivity and fear.

Punishment does not teach dogs what to do. It may suppress behaviour temporarily, but it does not create long-term, emotionally secure learning.

The good news is that aversive tools are not necessary. Effective, ethical, force-free training can achieve reliable results while protecting welfare and strengthening relationships.

If you need support, seek out an accredited, force-free professional.

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